This section is a beginners guide to setting up a new reef aquarium.  I bring this information to you based solely on what I have learned from reading about reef keeping, discussing with other aquarist, viewing information on other sites and through trial and error with my own reef tank. Unlike George Costanza from the TV Series "Seinfeld", I am not a Marine Biologist!  That being said, the information below will give you an overview of the main components that you will need to set up a reef tank, as well as some suggestions of what is working well in my tank. Like many things in life there is more than one way to get the same task accomplished  Don't think that this is the only way to set up a reef tank.  Before you plan and start setting up your tank you should look at several sources with different style setups before you start spending your money!   Join a discussion board like about.com's saltwater forum or Saltwaterfish.com's Reef Messageboard  so that you can see the everyday trials an tribulations of people who are already caring for a reef tank.  Also, please realize that before you take on this new hobby that setting up a reef tank properly can be very expensive and very time consuming!  If you have still decided to take the plunge good luck and happy reefing!

When setting up a tank there are several items you will need that are fairly obvious and some that are not!  I will break down the sub-sections below into what equipment needs to be bought and what I feel are the most important items that you will need.  There are many great vendors online that often will be much less expensive than your local fish store.  Shop around before you buy and you can save a lot of money!

Tank (Moderately Important)

When choosing a tank to set up your reef  there are three main considerations that you  should focus on: size, shape and material.  The size is the most important consideration of your choices.  Many reef experts will give an opinion on how big your tank should be.  The average recommended size seems to vary from a minimum of 30 gallons to a minimum of 55 gallons for a reef tank. The reason for this is that reef tanks require very clean, stable water conditions.  Larger tanks are not effected as easily by the addition of fish, overfeeding and overcrowding.  If you have the room and money I would recommend a tank between 30 and 55 gallons but this is not a requirement!  A smaller tank can be used successfully but it will be much more difficult to maintain and to keep the conditions stable (but very possible).  The second decision to make will be the shape of the tank.  Tanks come in all shapes and sizes.  The important thing to remember about the shape of your tank is that you are going to have to buy other items for it such as lighting and filters. You don't want to buy a hexagonal tank and have your light hanging a foot over on both sides.  Secondly, you will be stacking rocks inside of it. You don't want your reef rocks standing straight up looking like the Leaning Tower of Pisa so choose the shape of your tank wisely!  My recommendation is a standard rectangle shaped tank; but that is a matter of your preference.  Lastly, you need to consider the material that your tank is constructed of.  There are pretty much two choices, glass or acrylic.  Although acrylic looks nice it can be expensive and scratch very easily.  This made my choice easy!   I went with glass.  One other option that is available are "reef ready" tanks which come set up for a sump/refugium set up, although this is usually a little advanced if you are just starting out.

WATER (Extremely Important)

Since everything that goes into your tank will be living in it, water plays one of the most vital roles in a reef tank!   I always thought water was just water until I got into reef keeping!  I was wrong!  When setting up your tank I recommend that you don't use your own tap water.  Why?  Because tap water contains, phosphates, nitrates, nitrites, silicates, heavy metals and other elements that can cause problems in your tank.  Phosphates and Silicates when combined with high intensity lighting causes algae outbreaks.  High levels of nitrates and nitrites can stress and kill your fish very and other inhabitants very quickly.   Also, there is nothing like setting up a tank and having an unsightly algae nightmare that continues for an extended period of time sitting in the middle of your house!  A  Reverse Osmosis (RO/DI) system would be a very good investment.  RO/DI units produce the best quality water for a reef tank available.  RO/DI allows you to treat your own tap water and get lab grade quality water that has 99.9% of all elements removed!  Since RO/DI units can be expensive the are some other options available.  First, many local fish stores sell RO/DI water by the gallon.  This way you can get good quality water without buying a RO/DI unit.  Another choice of many aquarists is distilled water. Although it won't give you the quality of RO/DI distilled is still much better than tap water! At about $ .69/gallon (or less) you can buy distilled water from your grocery store.  To fill a 55 gallon tank with distilled water at $ .69/gallon, it would cost you $37.95 (less if you factor in the volume of  live and base rocks that will be in your tank).  That may seem like a lot but it will save you headache in the long run and it is money well spent!  

LIGHTING (Extremely Important)

There are mainly 3 different types of lighting styles on the market today: Compact Fluorescent, Metal Halide and (VHO) -Very High Output Fluorescent or some combination of these styles.  Some come in complete hoods some come in kits that you complete yourself.  Lighting itself is measured by it's type (the 3 styles mentioned above), it's wattage (strength) and by it's color which is measured on the Kelvin Scale (so when you hear someone say they have 250 watt 10K metal halides the K (in 10000K) stands for Kelvin and the 10000 is the intensity in degrees Kelvin). As far a bulb color, 6500K is yellow in color, 10000K (a.k.a - 10K) is white, and 20000K (a.k.a -20K) is Blue. Lighting below 6500K can cause algae problems so you want to avoid bulbs below  6500K for use in reef tanks. When deciding on a lighting style you may want to check at your local fish store or look at photo's on websites and see what type of lighting they are using on specific tanks.  This way you can see the difference in coloration between the styles.  The style you choose is really a matter of preference.  Lighting is one place where you need to invest a little money to get a good system or you will never get the results you want out of your tank!

If you are setting up a true reef tank then eventually you will probably be growing some variety of hard and soft corals.   In order to do this effectively, the 15 to 20 watt lighting that often comes standard in the fish tank hoods that came with the tank will not be sufficient!  I currently have 720 watts over my 55 gallon SPS coral tank (which is not uncommon).  Like the grass in your yard, corals need good water and good light to grow and flourish!   Not all corals have the same lighting requirements.  There are 3 main types of coral that can be kept in a reef tank.  SPS Corals (Small Polyp Stony), LPS (Large Polyp Stony) and Soft Corals.  Some of these corals require very little light such as mushrooms which are considered a soft coral .  Other corals such as Acropora , which is considered a SPS coral, requires very intense light!  In general soft corals require less light, LPS coral require medium to high lighting and SPS corals clams & anemones require very intense lighting.  My recommendation when it comes to lighting is to buy based on what corals you plan to keep!  If you are planning to keep soft corals and some LPS corals then I would recommend Compact Fluorescent or VHO lighting.  If you want to keep SPS Corals as well as LPS & Soft corals the I would recommend a Metal Halide/VHO combination.  When it comes to reef tank lighting try to remember that you are trying to simulate sun light so it is better to have a little extra light rather than not enough!

Substrate/Bottom Surface (Very Important)

There are several options when it comes to your reef tank's bottom surface.  Live Sand, Southdown Playground Sand (or dead sand), Crushed Coral (dolomite) or nothing at all are the main substrate or bottom surface choices.   For this element of your tank set up I am going to jump right in an give you my opinion.  After using both dolomite (crushed coral) and live sand I prefer live sand by far!  If you are trying to set up a true reef atmosphere a sand surface is in my opinion an almost necessity.  In addition to the natural look of live sand there are many benefits as well.  First, other than an occasional stir (so that it doesn't cake up) live sand never has to be cleaned / vacuumed!  Next, out of the bag live sand comes seeded with 2 million parts of beneficial bacteria per pound.  This helps to shorten your tanks cycle time because the bacteria in the sand goes to work right away breaking down ammonia, nitrite and nitrate into harmless elements.  Also, live sand is great for fish such as Gobies and Blennies who sift through and bury themselves in the sand.  There are a lot of opinions on how deep to make the sand as well and you can read about those opinions here (I prefer a medium sand bed which is an average of  both sides of this debate).  When it comes to live sand some aquarist believe that it is overpriced and they attempt to create live sand on their own.  To accomplish this they buy playground sand (many use Southdown Playground Sand from Home Depot) and seed it with their live rock (meaning the beneficial bacteria from their purchased live rock will eventually spread into the sand making it live sand).  This can be a risky proposition because many play ground or bought sands are silica based.  Silica is one of the ingredients that causes algae outbreaks so I wouldn't recommend making your own live sand unless you are absolutely sure it isn't silica based!  As far as crushed coral, I believe it looks too much like the gravel that you would see in a goldfish tank, but that is just my opinion. Bottom surface is a matter of opinion so the more you know the better off you'll be!  Read as much as possible!

Protein Skimmer (Very Important)

Protein Skimmers are devices that pull water from the tank into some type of chamber.  The skimmer then uses some form of air injection to create micro-bubbles in the water which attracts dissolved organic compounds (items in your tank like uneaten food or dying micro-organisms in your live rock that have broken down to liquid form and are mixed in with your saltwater).  The dissolved organic compounds attach themselves to the micro-bubbles that are being created inside the skimmer and then they (dirty bubbles) rise up to the top of the chamber and spill over into a collection cup which removes them from the water in your tank.  When the bubbles enter the collection cup they pop and and the residual dissolved organic compounds settle to the bottom of the collection cup in the form of a oily black liquid. The remaining cleaned water is then diverted back into the tank. Skimmers play a very important  role in keeping a reef tank clean!.  For healthy enough water to support a reef a skimmer is pretty much a necessity! There are several different styles to choose from with the big variable being where you place them in your system (i.e. - hang on the back of the tank or elsewhere).

Filtration (Very Important)

There are several styles and types of filtration that can be run inside of a marine reef tank. Each type plays a different role in keeping the tank's water clean and all are beneficial.  The type of filters that come in a box off the shelf at your local fish store are called mechanical filters.  These are the canister filters, trickle filters and vacuum filters that physically remove debris and visible floating particles from the water before they breakdown into dissolved organic compounds.  They are typically used in conjunction with filter carbon which helps to purify the water. There is also biological filtration in which bacteria, live plants or other live organisms filter out water impurities such as ammonia and nitrites.  Biological filtration can be achieved in many different ways. Live rock and live sand contain beneficial bacteria that breaks down harmful elements in the water into inert elements (elements that are no longer harmful to the tank's environment). Live plants such as macro algae filter feed on on certain harmful chemicals which in turn reduces their numbers.  There are also certain fish that can be considered biological/mechanical filters such as gobies which filter debris off the bottom of the tank.  Many filtration units on the market today try to combine some sort mechanical and biological filtration which provide the most efficient filtration.  When setting up your tank I advise you to get some good live sand, a good amount of live rock, a good protein skimmer and one other type of filter that can handle some activated carbon. Over time after the tank has been set up you can evaluate whether or not you have enough filtration by your water conditions.  If the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate have all dropped and continue to drop you may have enough filtration (your goal should be a zero reading on ammonia, nitrite and nitrate). If  your readings are still high and or rising then additional filtration may be needed if you don't have any factors causing those high readings like overcrowding or over feeding. Many aquarist (including myself) use what is known as a sump configuration (also known as Refugium) in their system for filtration.  This allows the aquarist to have a secondary tank to house additional live rock and macro algae in order to have additional biological filtration.

Rock (Very Important)

There are two types of aquarium rock that will go into your fish tank; base rock and live rock.  Base rock is basically rock that has been removed from the ocean and all living organisms have died off so the rock is dry and basically dead.  Base rock typically goes on top of your sand at the bottom of the tank and serves as a "base" for your live rock.  Over time the live rock sitting on top of the base rock will "seed" the once dead rock turning it into live rock.  Live rock refers to rock that has been pulled directly from the ocean and it houses various marine wildlife and living bacteria.  Live rock is shipped "wet" (to preserve the living creatures in and on it) from the supplier and can come from places like Florida, Fiji, the Marshall Islands and Micronesia.  Getting live rock is one of the best experiences in reef keeping.  When it arrives and is set up in the tank it is fascinating to watch as living organisms start to come to life in front of your eyes!  Sponges, tubeworms, feather dusters, crabs, gastropods and coralline algae are just a few of the inhabitants that can come on live rock!  Sit back and enjoy the show this is why you set up a reef tank in the first place! (note: base rock is not required - the tank can be filled with live rock only but it is more expensive in that scenario).

Other Accessories (Very Important)

Specific Gravity Meter - measures the salinity/density of your saltwater which should be between 1.020 and 1.026.  Marine Test Kits - measures the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH and alkalinity of your tank water all of which must stay within specific levels to support marine life (it is also a good idea to test calcium levels). Tank Heater - used to keep your water temperature from getting too cold (typically 100 watts per every 20 gallons is safe rule for tank heating) Thermometer - used to measure the temperature of the tank water which should be between 72-80 degrees. Powerheads - used to keep good circulation on liive rocks and corals which helps prevent algae growth (need about 1 for every 30 gallons).  Salt Mix - this is mixed with your distilled or RO/DI water to make salt or sea water.  Check the label and ensure you buy a brand that is phosphate free.

Location

Before you set up your tank you need to figure out where you are going to put it.  Since a 55 gallon tank with stand, water, rock and sand can weigh upwards of 600 lbs you want to make sure that your floor can hold it.  Secondly, you want to make sure that the tank is out of direct sunlight and away from heating and cooling ducts.  Sunlight can cause algae blooms and heating and cooling ducts can cause too much temperature fluctuation which can be harmful to your tank inhabitants.  Also, since you will have a lot of equipment running on your tank you also want to choose an area with adequate electrical outlets.  When you find a suitable location make sure you place the tank/stand at least 6 inches from the wall.  This will make it easier to clean and ensure that any hang on the tank devices have room to fit.

Adding Everything

Ok, you've gone out and spent a lot of money on a lot of equipment, rocks and sand and you have decided on a place to put your tank so what's next?  1. Add Water and Salt Mix: Once your tank is in place fill it about three quarters of the way full with your distilled or RO/DI water then add your salt mix. (Note: tap water can be used but it is not recommended- If tap water is used it must be de-chlorinated with a product such as Aquasafe).  Follow the directions on the salt mix container to make sure you get the proper salinity!  Once you have added the proper amount of salt mixture set a powerhead in the tank to mix the salt and water up.  When the water clears up test that salinity with your specific gravity meter to ensure you have the proper salinity and if not adjust it.  Add your tank heater to bring the water up to between 72-80 degrees  2. Add Sand: When you have the proper temperature and salinity remove the powerhead and you can add your live sand.  Some will tell you to put your base rock in first before the sand but I do not.  3. Add Base Rock: Once the sand you have added settles you can add your base rock. When adding the base rock, carefully move it back an forth digging it into the sand until it reaches the bottom glass.  This will help prevent it from toppling if you have any burrowers in your tank.  When adding the base rock try to set up little tunnels and passage ways for fish to hide in keeping in mind the size of fish you will be adding in relation to the size of the tunnels.  Also leave at least a 2 inch gap between your rock and the glass walls of the aquarium.  This will make it much easier to clean any algae off of the glass!  Add Live Rock: The live rock should be securely placed on top of the base rock keeping with the tunnel an passage way theme.  It is very important that the rock be stacked securely.  If your rocks fall they can kill your fish and even crack your tank so secure placement is essential.  I have read that some aquarist lay their rocks out on the floor before hand to get the shape they want out of their rocks!  (note: some aquarist will tell you to make sure your live rock is fully cured before it is added in the tank. I put mine in uncured so that no marine life that was native to the rock was lost during the curing process.  Read as much as possible on this before you decide to add cured or uncured rock). After the live sand, base rock and live rock have been added wait 2 hours then test your salinity again.  If it is low, premix some more salt (following the instructions on the bag) and water (distilled or RO/DI) and then use the premix to top off the remaining water in the tank if you have room).  If the salinity is high just use plain distilled or RO/DI water for the top off. Add Filters and Skimmers: Once you have the proper water level and everything else has been added you can add your filtration and skimmers (note: some aquarist will tell you not to add the protein skimmer for 2 to 3 weeks which they believe helps the tank cycle more quickly- I added mine right away and my tank still  cycled in about 8-10 days).  Wait, Watch and Measure:  Sit back and relax the most difficult part is over.  Over the next couple of days use your test kit to measure your chemical levels, your salinity and keep an eye on your temperature and watch your tank cycle.  

Adding Fish

After the tank has been set up for about 3 days (if your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are not too high) you may want consider adding 2 or 3 hardy and inexpensive fish.  Damsels are usually a good choice to cycle a tank because they hold up well and don't cost too much.  After your tank levels have dropped and ammonia is at almost zero and nitrite and nitrate levels have dropped then you may want to start experimenting by adding more expensive fish one at a time.  Keep in mind that you don't want to over stock the tank.  The "very general" rule for saltwater fish is 1 inch of fish for every 3 gallons of water.  

Adding Corals

I would not recommend adding any corals to the tank until it has been running for 4 to 6 months.  Hard and Soft Corals are expensive and can be lost quickly if a tank is not mature enough to accept them.  When you are ready to add them read as much as possible about what are good beginner corals and what you will need to do to successfully add them.  

Additives & Supplements

There are several additives and supplements that are important to the development of your reef system.  I like the Kent Marine line of products personally but they are not the only makers or these type of products.  I currently use Kent Marine Tech CB Part A & B.  This is a calcium & alkalinity buffer and is helpful to the growth of coralline algae. I also use Kent Marine Strontium & Molybdenum which aids in the growth of coralline and is beneficial to invertebrates. Some aquarist like to add Kent Marine Iodine as well. 

Nice To Have Items

Algae Magnet - Used to easily clean algae off of your tanks walls. RO/DI unit - Treats tap water removing chemicals that are harmful to a reef tank. Light Timers - useful for consistent on and off  times for your aquarium.

Sit back and watch your tank and see what hidden stowaways begin to come out of your rocks (you might be amazed!)  I often check my tank with a flashlight several hours after the lights have been off and I see many things that come out only at night.  Very fascinating!

Now that your tank is set up you probably want to know what to expect every step of the way?  If so, check my Tank Timeline section for an account of what change my tank has gone through.  For a picture timeline check my Pictures Page.

Remember the above information are merely suggestions of what has worked well for me and some of the things that I have learned from other aquarist within the hobby of reef keeping.  After reading the information above read someone else's opinions on what worked well for them.  That way you are more informed and can make the best decisions for yourself and your tank.

Good Luck and Happy Reefing!

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